[New Orleans] - As you walk along the cobblestone sidewalks of downtown New Orleans, the sound of local brass bands fills your ears and the smell of freshly cooked beignets over at Cafe Du Monde tickles your nose. However, what will really catch your attention is the magnitude of mule-drawn carriages lining the 700 blocks of Decatur Street.
Sandra Holliman is a 64-year-old self-proclaimed tour junkie who has been “driving an ass” for as long as she can remember. The former school teacher has called this iconic city, which brought the world jazz music, the French Quarter and some of the best food known to man, home for the last 41 years.
Since 2006, Holliman has provided locals and tourist alike with an informative look around downtown; telling her passengers no one has had more of an influence on the distinct culture of New Orleans in the last 297 years than the Spanish and French settlers who founded The Big Easy in 1718.
“The essence of New Orleans is defined by our culture," Holliman said. But that same culture natives have come to love in this evergreen city functions as a double-edged sword. She believes the culture of New Orleans has helped further the different ethnicities and traditions we have in this great city but on the other hand, it also keeps us stagnant.
Holliman said the “that’s not how we do things here” attitude Louisianans and New Orleanians still possess in [2016] is responsible for the non-progressive city residents have. She said “Our culture keeps the city economics and school systems here somewhat backwards."
A typical day for Holliman begins around 6:30 a.m. so she can meet Big Mama (her Mule) by 8:15 a.m. She spends the beginning part of her day sitting around and waiting until after breakfast to give tours because from her experience, people like to grab a bite to eat prior to starting their day.
Holliman gives approximately four to six tours through the course of one week. A good one anyways. While her job is extremely rewarding, she admits, being a mule driver requires much more than people would expect.
“Controlling an 1800 pound Mule, avoiding taxi drivers who all want to kill you with their cars and still being able to provide with an informative, yet interesting tour for my customers can be difficult at times," Holliman said.
One thing that makes Holliman’s job much easier is that she does not have to worry about training the mule she drives. Each animal is put through rigorous training for about 30-40 hours a week to help them navigate the busy streets of New Orleans. After all, Holliman said “we live in a city full of traffic and people.”
I talked further and Holliman began to tell me about the bond she created with Big Mama over the last couple of years. When talking to her animals, the power of her voice is indescribable. Holliman thinks her voice calms Big Mama down when she feels overwhelmed.
Holliman recalled one specific anecdote that showed how special her relationship with Big Mama was. A few months back when someone tried to get Big Mama out of her stall, she would not move out of fear, so she laid down until she heard Holliman’s voice. Holliman says she was thankful that no one was hurt in this situation because when an animal of this size is afraid, they can unintentionally hurt those around them.
Never being married or bearing any children, Holliman says she lives comfortably in her home located behind The Saint Louis Cathedral in the heart of New Orleans. Jokingly, she said she’s never been married because she “recycles” men. It is accurate to say that Sandra Holliman is as iconic and mysterious as the city of New Orleans itself.
If you are ever strolling down the Decatur Street in the near future and happen to have some extra cash laying around in your wallet, taking a tour with Holliman as your captain will definitely be an experience you will never forget. Tours start at $18 per person for half an hour and increase to $36 per person for one hour.
As Holliman said, "Twice the time, twice the help."
