I spent last semester abroad in Prague; as I was booking my spring break trip to Greece, I found the best deal would involve a long layover in Kyiv, the capital city of Ukraine.
You'll notice that I wrote a piece about one of my outings in Greece before this. It would have made more sense to write about the layover before the dream vacation, but I wanted to emphasize Ukraine. I want to give special attention to a country I knew next to nothing about, and one that embraced me with open arms that I did not expect. This detour was, in a word, unforgettable.
Slavic Glow: Kyiv was undeniably Slavic, but had a unique vibe compared to Prague.
I arrived early in the afternoon, without even the most basic knowledge of Ukrainian to help me get by. I met Alexander outside the airport, as I was trying (and failing) to hail a cab. Most cab drivers will drop you off, maybe harass you for a tip if you don't give them one, and go off: Alexander offered me his cab with a warm smile and without a second though.
As we drove through the highway to the town center, I talked to him about my short visit to Ukraine. He asked me what I intended to do here, and offered me a cigarette as the sun rose over a new city to explore.When I meekly told him I only had a debit card, he drove me to the bank closest to my hostel, and even helped me translate the machine.
When we got to my hostel, he helped me bring my bags upstairs, and spoke to the manager in Ukranian explaining that I was a guest. He didn't leave my side until I was settled, and gave me his number so I could call him the next morning to drive me back for my early flight.
After taking a long nap, satisfied by the seemingly kind strangers I'd already encountered, I was ready to explore the city. Paper map in hand, I laced up my boots and headed into Kyiv.
Gods & Monsters: Ukraine's mythos, historical and fantastical, coexists through street art.
I walked past the opera houses, the pastel-blue and gold buildings, the Ukrainian flags. The city has several, lovely murals showcasing Ukrainian folklore. I had already gotten a feel for Slavic culture in Prague, and Ukraine was comparatively warmer than the Czech Republic. What it lacked in rustic historical plazas and cobblestones, it made up for with the smiles of strangers and bright, beautiful colors.
In all my excitement, I had forgotten (probably to my very Catholic mum's displeasure) that it was Easter Sunday. As I continued to make my way deeper into the city, I was soon reminded of what day it was in the biggest way possible.
Blue and Gold Easter: The cathedral was ostentatious and beautiful, inside and outside.
The Czech Republic is unique for it's largely atheist population and it's deeply religious roots: Prague's beloved founder King Charles IV was a Roman Catholic. Because of this unique contradiction, my study abroad location was full of glistening cathedrals empty enough for me to thoroughly explore.
Kyiv was different in that the cathedrals, although just as ostentatious, were filled with worshippers; it was Easter Sunday, after all, and the Orthodox priests held court in their gold-hilted halls, black robes draping behind them. There was no photography allowed inside, but let me assure you it was just as beautiful as the outside, if not more.
Icon(ic): Ukrainian Catholic icons are noticeably different from the ones I grew up around.
After buying a few souvenirs, I left the cathedral in search of food, specifically Ukrainian borscht. I was also dying to try the vodka, knowing how close I was to Russia and knowing I wouldn't have the chance to go.*
I ended up having mushroom and cheese "pancakes" that had more in common with crepes, a big bowl of borscht, and washed it down with a White Russian. My stomach full of heavy food, I decided to walk back to the hostel, and down the city center at night. If Kyiv shines gold in the day, it glows neon at night.
*Side note: I ended up having a layover in Moscow before coming to the States, and can confirm Russian vodka's renowned strength.
No Sleep 'till Athens: Taking in Ukraine's neon-lit, unique nightlife hours before my flight.
I got back to my hostel at 22:30 or so, settling in for a nice post-walk unwind with the other guests, talking about the day over beers. Some made the trek to Chernobyl, others stayed in, but I was the only one who tried to explore Kyiv. I fell asleep smiling about that fact.
The next morning, Alexander picked me up as promised, telling me about how exciting it was that I was so young. He told me about his wife and kids, and how my life was "beginning." It was strange, to talk about beginnings as my time in Ukraine came to an end.
I was finally leaving to Greece after years of dreaming about it, only to desperately want to go back to Ukraine. I know that someday I will: I'll come back to one of the most beautiful places in Europe, where the kindest people are waiting to extend their arms to you, where the cathedrals are topped with gold, and where the borscht never runs dry.
Kyiv
City of homey hostel souls,
wrapped in grafitti, weed,
and "traditional dumplings,"
of borscht and beer,
incensed Orthodox robes
casting blessings under golden roofs,
of Jesus murals, drinkable holy water,
Golden Gates, Golden relics,
old women tap-dancing, rambling in the street—
not enough for just one day,
or seventeen hours of passing through.
12:40 | 28.03.2016
In the air, between Ukraine and Greece.
A Farewell to Kyiv: The sun sets on one adventure, and rises on another.
