Vegan leather is widely promoted as the most ethical and environmentally conscious buying decision a person can make when wanting that fashionable leather look, but really, how eco-friendly is it? Everyone who is looking for it knows vegan leather means the omission of all animal products and by-products in the manufacturing of the fabric. Yet, unfortunately, people often wrongfully assume that the vegan choice is also the most environmentally friendly choice. This is simply not true.

Following the same logic that every square is a rectangle but not every rectangle is a square, most eco-friendly products are animal-friendly, but not all animal-friendly products are eco-friendly. This becomes very apparent when you take into account what "vegan leather" materials actually are and how they are produced.

The So-Called "Vegan" Leather Substitutes

1. PVC

PVC or PolyVinyl Chloride releases harmful substances in the combustion and incineration cycles necessary to production. To give you a better idea, "harmful substances" actually means chlorine gas and dioxins, one of the most toxic chemicals known to man. Dioxins have been linked to developmental disturbances and increase cancer risks.

Although PVC will never fully breakdown, as it is not biodegradable, it will begin to release phthalates and micro-particles after a prolonged period. Phthalates, which are initially added as a softening agent in PVC production are known to cause breathing problems, breast cancers, hormonal disruptions, and birth defects.

2. Polyurethane (PU)

Although arguably better than PVC, it would be a stretch to call PU eco-friendly. As a microfiber-based synthetic, polyurethane goes through an extensive production process in which textiles are compacted repeatedly before being submerged in a chemical concentration to solidify. Dimethylformamide, just one of the toxic chemicals used in this process, has also been linked to cancer and birth defects. Polyurethane is also not biodegradable, yet has a shorter shelf life than genuine leather or PVC products.

Brentano's polyurethane, although still a synthetic that is manufactured through the same chemical process as all PU, has been engineered to be biodegradable. This is only helpful, however, if you're interested in making your own vegan leather as they produce faux leather fabrics, not faux leather products.

3. Lorica

In some cases, more common in Europe than the United States, Lorica will show up on the materials tag of faux leather goodies. Lorica, however, is just another polyurethane and polyamide microfiber composite, masquerading under a patented name.

4. Waxed Canvas

Cotton fabric treated with a paraffin wax, only minute chemical toxins are generated in the production of waxed canvas (all from the paraffin wax), especially in comparison to PVC and PU.

Developed a few centuries ago as an outdoors-friendly fabric, waxed canvas has been revamped to look and be worn like leather.

5. Cork

While I don't understand the approach of cork as a vegan leather--as unlike the other fabrics, it really doesn't mimic the appearance of actual leather--it is actually a sustainable choice.

Made from the bark of the Cork Oak Tree, one of the benefits is that a single tree may be harvested over and over again. After the essential twenty-five years it takes for a Cork Oak Tree to mature, the trees may be stripped of their bark every nine years.

Cork is also biodegradable.

6. Pineapple?

Yes, pineapple. Developed in the Philippines, a leather substitute called Pinatex, produced from the fibers of pineapple leaves (a by-product of the pineapple harvest) may soon be available.

Although I wanted to draw attention to the fact that vegan leather products are not always all their cracked up to be, I am by no means saying genuine leather is a better alternative.

Leather Sucks Too

Although the hides used in the leather-making process are biodegradable, the process of tanning (converting the hides to leather) prevents the fabric from biodegrading. Meaning your handbag is going to spend a lot of time in the local landfill when you're done with it.

Of the 111 tanning facilities in the United States (most in Pennsylvania, New York, Massachusetts and Wisconsin), 90% of the leather is produced through a process referred to as chrome-tanning. This process involves a lot of not-so-cute materials such as chromium (hence the name chrome-tanned), formaldehyde, coal-tar derivatives, mineral salts, and various oils, dyes, and finishes, some of which are cyanide-based. The EPA regards all waste containing chromium to be hazardous; though it does not currently view any US leather tanning facility as a source of chromium emissions.

It is worth noting, however, that most of the leather products you see on the shelves are not manufactured in the United States, but imported from countries and areas of the world far less regulated by environmental agencies. In these regions run-off is a serious issue; infusing sometimes extremely elevated levels of lead, cyanide and formaldehyde into the groundwater surrounding tanneries. This poses a serious threat not only to the environment, but human health.

All of this does not even take into consideration the waste and pollutants created in the raising of animals for leather nor the ethical treatment (or lack thereof) of the raised animals.

Possible Middle Ground?

While I recognize the more eco-friendly natures of cork and waxed cotton (possibly even pineapple), I would make the argument that recycling genuine leather might be the best option.

Reusing that thrift store find keeps the product out of the landfill without supporting the leather industry or perpetuating the deaths of animals for their hides. Companies like MATT & NAT , follow this practice of eco-friendly making their Canvas Collection from recycled water bottles and leather goods.

These reuse, reduce, recycle practices guarantee that no "new" animals will die for the purchase a bag or a pair of shoes, yet it, of course, doesn't wipe away the life already lost. It's all personal choice. You have to draw your own metaphorical, ethical line in the sand.

Bottom line: making the most eco-friendly choice isn't a walk in the park.