As aspect of art, fashion is subjective. There is no right or wrong way to pair a top with your favorite pants. Fashion is expressive and individualistic, while simultaneously, it has the power sets trends and ironically creates a "fashion norm" per se. From the ASOS wearing Kourtney Kardashian, to the Good Will hunting hipsters, even major fashion industries keep an ear, or an eye to the streets on what's trending fashion-wise among teenagers and young adults which has lately implemented a thin line between cultural appropriation and cultural appreciation.
In an age where fashion brands have trouble discerning between cultural appreciation and cultural appropriation, it’s safe to say that Dolce and Gabbana should tread carefully in the release of the D&G abayas, a robe like dress, and hijab collection, which is a veil that covers the head and chest. The collection features statement prints like lemons, red roses, polka dots, and other fruits. Expanding beyond their signature sexy silhouette to more modest pieces for Muslim women, specifically wealthy Muslim women in the Middle East since D&G host 13 boutiques in the United Arab Emirates as well as in Saudi Arabia, Kuwait and Bahrain. Though there has been a mostly positive response to the release of this collection, many have been skeptical of the collection being a marketing ploy. It may seem like a reach, but when Karlie Kloss strutted down the Victoria's Secret Fashion Show runway in a Native American war bonnet, the model "chiefed" her bold accessory without any understanding of the offensiveness of her assigned “pièce de résistance". Days later the company posted an apology in regards to their ignorance of Native American culture. We could also talk about how Urban Outfitters ripped off the authenticity of the traditional Indian Bindi, by “renaming” it as a “face jewel" and noting that was originally worn by Gwen Stefani in the 1990s. This is what I hope to be a joke, was from the UO Blog itself. However, Stefano Gabbana has expressed his appreciation for the middle east a couple times. Proclaiming that he is “really fascinated with the Middle East” and that the collection is to “celebrate the inimitable Dolce Vita that is distinct to us in the Arab world”.
The question of the appropriation rises when D&G debuts the collection with a non-Middle Eastern model, instead they used a white model. Even though, Islam is a religion and many women of all races can be Muslim and abide to the modesty, it is evident that the model does not concur with that alternative viewpoint. Dolce and Gabbana have a history of blackface accessories down the runway, without one model of color in sight. They even faced a scandal where they darken models' skin, instead of hiring a brown model. Anyway, appropriation has been the go to social argument lately. It is extremely frustrating for those who are bashed for participating in their own culture, while major brands and celebrities are being praised for using it. Imagine working on a project so hard and receiving a failing grade for it, while someone who copied off of your entire project was given an A++. Appropriation is annoying and appreciation is truly underrated.
Why is it that these brands are so reluctant to appreciating a culture than appropriating it. Similar to Kim Kardashian's ‘new found’ “boxer braids” (corn rows), I assume it’s all marketing. Each brand, including celebrities, fashion lines and designers, want to be known as trendsetters as it increases their clientele. In this nation of consumption, it is evident that buyers' control is what’s being sold even at the expense of religion, culture and minorities in America.
