1. Cage Size.

This cage is large enough for Czar, my guinea pig, to have an igloo (a place to hide), food bowl, hay rack, water bottle, and still plenty of space to roam around! This is the appropriate size for ONE guinea pig. The cages you see in the store are too small for cavies!

Czar's cage was bought from this website: Piggy Bed Spreads

2. Fleece Bedding.

I highly recommend using fleece bedding above all other bedding options. I prefer this because it is so much softer for their little feet.

How to do it... first lay down 1-2 towels (to absorb). Next lay down the layer of fleece (liquid passes through this layer), then the rest of the stuff as normal.

Cleaning the fleece... fold up the fleece and carry it outside, shake to get "debris" off. Then you can throw it in the washing machine! Make sure to use laundry detergent that is scentless, for sensitive skin. Then do not add anything else in the washer or the dryer!

3. NO baths.

The average short-haired guinea pig cleans themselves and does not need a bath. Only bathe a guinea pig if the vet recommends it.

Other than that, DO NOT bathe your guinea pig, it strips their skin and fur of oil they need to protect their skin.

4. More timothy hay please!

Hay must be made available to guinea pigs at all times. This is more important to their diet than pellets. Be sure when in store to buy the greenest hay there is.

The brand I like to purchase for hay, pellets, and vitamin tablets are Oxbow (which can be found in most pet stores).

5. NO seeds in pellets.

Please please please, whatever brand you choose to purchase, make sure that there are no seeds in the pellet mix! These seeds are extremely fattening for guinea pigs and often pose serious CHOKING hazards.

6. Vitamin C supplements.

It is common that guinea pigs (and humans) do not get enough vitamin C in their diet. It is best to provide supplements to make sure they do not get scurvy!

If for some reason they get more than "100% of the daily value", vitamin C is a water-soluble vitamin. All that means is, the next time they go to the bathroom, the excess vitamin C is gone.

7. More than one.

Guinea pigs are considered "social animals", meaning they shouldn't live alone. You should have two or more guinea pigs living together in a LARGE cage. It's easier to pair up females together instead of males together, but it's still possible to pair males together!

8. Upper respiratory infections.

URI's (upper respiratory infections) are the most common affliction for these little guys. The symptoms manifest themselves in different ways, crust around the eyes, wheezing, coughing, sneezing, changes in behavior, change in weight (and no change in diet) and so much more.

If URI's go untreated, there is a high chance that these precious piggies die. Go straight to a vet if there are any signs.

9. Somewhere to hide.

Cavies always need somewhere to hide, make sure to provide (one per piggy) in their cage.

10. Clean that water bottle!

The water bottle needs changed and cleaned more often than you think!

I bought a long-neck baby bottle scrubber to ensure I can properly clean their bottles.

My rule of thumb is: if you wouldn't drink it, why should they?

11. Floor time.

Even with a large cage, guinea pigs should frequently have floor time.

They can explore, wander around, and stretch their legs. Place different (cavie friendly) items around the floor for them to investigate and maybe even a tunnel to run through!

12. Changes in behavior.

Sudden changes in your guinea pig's behavior and/or weight (with no diet or environment changes) should be investigated.

Cavies are prey animals, they try their hardest to hide their illness. As their loving human parents, we need to be hyper-aware of each guinea pig's "normal" and "abnormal" behavior. But remember, each guinea pig is unique!

13. DO NOT breed guinea pigs.

Please, DO NOT breed guinea pigs. The average person does not realize how often there are complications during birth where the babies die or the mommy dies.

14. Teeth are always growing.

Guinea pig's teeth are always growing, it is extremely important they have things to chew on to wear down their teeth.

There are instances where a guinea pig's teeth get too long and they can no longer eat. If that is the case, be sure to go to the vet!

15. Adopt don't shop.

Find local rescues near you! For anyone interested in becoming a guinea pig parent in PA, I found some rescues just for you!

Little Fur Ball Rescue

Wheek Care Rescue

Judge's Park Rescue

16. If you decide being a guinea pig parent is not for you, DO NOT release them into the wild.

Guinea pigs have been domesticated for a long time. They do not have the same instincts to survive out in the wild as their ancestor cavies do.

The same shelters I listed above as good places to adopt are also good places for you to forfeit your guinea pig. Please try to re-home the guinea pig instead of releasing them.

Websites for more guinea pig help!

Please see these websites for extensive information for your guinea pigs' needs.

For veggies and fruits do's/don't's: Food List

What your guinea pig is trying to "tell" you: Sounds and Body Language

Sizing of guinea pig cages: Guinea pig housing

Purchase cages, fleece, and much more: Piggy Bed Spreads

More information about bathing guinea pigs: Pets on mom.me