When autumn is around the corner, most people keen on preparing their gardens for the winter tend to get busy. For plants, the best defence against diseases and pests is pruning. Therefore, the first job during autumn for those who care for their gardens is pruning before and after fruiting to ward off bacterial infections. Bacterial infections become noticeable in branches which have split, crossed over or rubbed against one another in the process of growing. Crossing branches, diseased or dead branches should always be removed since any wound resulting from crossing, and rubbing can potentially invite diseases.

What Should Be Pruned?

Pruning is not focused on fruit trees alone. You can prune nearly every type of plants and trees depending on their growth levels and ability to produce fresh branches, flowers and fruits. Pruning always starts with a good look at the top and working downwards. A useful rule to follow when you start pruning is the 1/3 and ¼ rule. No more than ¼ from the crown of a tree should be removed in any given season. Ideally, the main branches on sides should be minimum of 1/3 less in diameter compared to the trunk. In the case of nearly every deciduous tree, pruning from the bottom should be limited to 1/3 of the height of the tree. Whenever feasible try and encourage the branches on the sides forming angles with the trunk.

With most species the trunk should be singular. Therefore, you should look for the ideal leader and branches before you start pruning and removing defective parts to prune for the purpose of form. Protecting the pruning cuts need not be a major cause for worry. However, large wounds can be painted simply for aesthetics though it would not impact decay. The tools used in pruning should always be sharp and if you have young trees using pruning shears having curved blades with one hand can be beneficial.

A pole pruner works best with high branches. For bigger trees you are always better off using professional services of arborist. The ridge collar and branch bark on the outside should be cut from the larger branches. Protruding stubs should not be left and if you see the limb to be pretty small and forming a collar, it should be cut close.

If you are simply cutting a small branch short, cut the lateral bud or a lateral branch. A bud that can encourage a new branch should be favoured since it can grow in the desired direction. The cut needs to be clean and sharp with a slight angle of about ¼ inch beyond the chosen bud.

Tree-Care.Com.Au is an Australian business that offers a wide array of tree care services for Australian homeowners.

Benefits of Pruning Fruit Trees

Fruit trees need no pruning for the purpose of producing fruits. Fruiting is a natural process for the survival of the tree. Many gardeners may also choose not to prune fruit trees. However, without pruning can crop particularly when they are young and can suffer over the longer term in the absence of adequate care. Remember that most of us look for successful yield of fruits year after year for several years. Therefore, there are at least 3 good reasons why you should prune fruit trees.

Durability and Strength

You can train fruit trees into different forms including central leader, vase or espalier. This type of training will ensure durable and short branches with a strong framework enabling the tree to hold the crop.

Growth and Cropping

Pruning helps in regulating production by slowing down vigorous foliage growth and promoting fruiting spurs or in regulating the size and number of the fruit.

Tree Health

The 4 Ds gain predominance when you consider the tree health and these are Dead, diseased, deformed and diagonal. While taking on these 4 Ds, you should be ruthless and remove all of them. It could sound severe, but removing weak branches prevents further problems while boosting the immune reserves of the tree. Pay attention to shoots occurring below graft unions and remove them.

Type of Fruits Trees Needing Pruning and The Timing

Winter is the perfect time for starting pruning of fruit trees such as pome fruit, stone fruit, mulberries, grapes, figs, persimmons and kiwi fruit. Pruning should be done annually for stimulating fruit production and the pruning schedule should be adjusted to suit your local weather conditions. Most of the trees mentioned above are deciduous in nature and you should not confuse these with the evergreen types like citrus that need minimal pruning only towards spring.

Pruning Methods

A common method 'open centre' is similar to a wide bowl radiating outward from the tree trunk. 3 to 5 main branches well-spaced form the bowl. This method is seen frequently in commercial orchards aims at an open centre so as to allow light and air by eliminating overcrowded branches formed in the mid tree and those that rub against one another. If you are training a younger tree you should be cutting the leader backwards and select new shoots growing from the bottom of the cut to facilitate scaffold branches in future.

The vase shaped pruning method is ideal for all stone fruit and pome trees. The final shape should be resembling V shape with a wide angle. The objective is to pick 3 or 4 branches about 50 cm above ground and each of them pointing in different directions. These branches will eventually constitute main leaders of your fruit tree and will subdivide again in subsequent years to be sub leaders. You would also do well to select the best branch on the sides and cut back the main stem above the highest branch on the side. Outside shoots are best pruned to outside bud and all of them at nearly the same level. For younger trees that do not have adequate branches on the side, you should cut main stem back to about 1 m and choose suitable branches in a following year.