People always joke about how going abroad "changes" you. But it really does.
I was blessed enough to be able to take on the opportunity of exploring Ireland for a week. We covered the entire southern portion of the country, speaking of the Great Famine and the struggle the country went through during the years before, during and after. But I received so much more than a book of field notes and some Irish souvenirs.
We visited one of the three mass graveyards in Skibbereen, the hardest-hit town in all of the country. There is a patch of grass, no bigger than a fourth of a football field, that holds the bodies of 8,000 to 10,000 men, women and children who perished during the Famine Years.
Counties weren't well-equipped to deal with the mass amount of death surrounding them. Not only were people dying from starvation, but typhoid was rampant as well. Mass graves were the way to keep up with the high mortality rate. Just by standing within the borders of this graveyard, I could feel such an intense energy hover over me. It gave me just an inkling of the pain and suffering that those people and their loved ones went through.
That energy continued with me throughout the rest of my trip, especially at famine museums, the Famine Ships memorial, the Mass Rock, and the famine roads.
The belief during this Victorian Age was that in order to receive aid, one must earn it by working. So the starving Irish (mostly Catholic) were sent to break boulders and build roads to nowhere. This famine road in Glenville-Chimneyfield is the same road that was carved in the mid-1800s. Countless individuals died while working because aid was so scarce and their bodies were running on less-than-empty. What's even worse is that if you perished on the job, your family did not receive aid because you did not complete your task.
But Ireland is so much more than its past.
Ireland is about the Cliffs of Moher, the place I felt the most invincible in my life thus far. You feel like you're on top of the world with all of the beauty surrounding you. You're about 40 stories above the sea and it's breathtaking. The salty wind and the misty clouds really add to the awe of this location. (Pro tip: Get there first thing in the morning to beat the crowds and the rain!)
Ireland is about its rolling hills, rocky cliffs, and magical Emerald forests. I felt like I was walking into a storybook with every step I took. This trail led to a raging waterfall, and — history buff bonus — was directly on the famine trail. It sounds tacky, but I really was expecting some fairy or leprechaun to pop out. Pictures truly don't do this country justice.
Ireland is about its people, who have a robust spirit, a friendly demeanor, and the fire of a thousand suns in their souls. They really brought out the best in me and those around me. Everyone can come together and truly live in Ireland. I gained a dozen new best friends and memories for a lifetime because of this trip and I'm forever grateful.
I am proudly 22% Irish. My family came over from counties Galway, Roscommon and Tipperary before the worst of the famine had hit. They settled in various cities within the New World, bringing their language, customs, and pride with them. What the Irish went through during the mid-19th century is quite unfathomable. Their rulers were exploiting them, their crop had betrayed them, and their religion could only save them so much.
To be able to go back to the land of my ancestors and to connect with them throughout this trip has been absolutely incredible. I came across a brand of chips (crisps, as they call them) and it said, "O'Donnell's of Tipperary." The look on my face must have spoken volumes because my great-great-grandmother was Katherine O'Donnell— from County Tipperary. That moment, I knew my ancestors were with me. It was only fitting that I was wearing the necklaces of her daughter, my great-grandmother, all week.
Though I fell head-over-heels in love with Ireland, it helped me open my eyes to how Europeans run their countries and the commonplace ideas they share across the region. I had to get used to driving on the opposite side, having tea three times a day — which by the way, we NEED to start up in the states! — and the difference in tipping culture.
However, going abroad also made me miss some quintessential American things. I had Chipotle as my first meal back and I have no single regret about it!
Ireland gave me a whole new perspective on what my family went through. To see their land and to see the places they called home— no wonder they scratched and clawed to be on the Emerald Isle again. I can honestly say that Éire is truly the most beautiful country I have ever seen and I cannot wait to go back.
🇮🇪🇮🇪🇮🇪
