February 27, 2016. In the west African country of Guinea-Bissau.
I spent the day in the village of Bara, home to Manjacos. The Manjaco people are one of the 11 ethnic groups in Guinea-Bissau (CIA World Factbook). I learned the Manjacos are predominantly animists religiously. Polygamy is common within this tribe, and in Guinea-Bissau. Manjacos are found primarily in the Cacheau region.
Manjacos happens to have the most people living abroad, sending money back to their families and villages. Manjaco communities can be found throughout Europe and North Africa, including in Senegal, Portugal, Spain and France (which has the largest).
I conversed in French with the patriarch of the family because he lived in Normandy for 47 years before retiring in his village in Guinea-Bissau. The majority of the older men and women in the different tribes only speak their tribal languages, unless they lived abroad. Often times, in order to speak with the elders of the home, one of their children or grandchildren has to be the translator.
While with the group of Manjaco women, I learned how to make the rice dish with palm seed oil sauce. We boiled the palm seeds and mashed them using a pilong. After, we scooped it all into a bowl and poured water in it causing the oil and the red juice to rise. We then separated the seeds and thrush from the liquid for the sauce to be finish and applied to the rice and meat (which is usually fish or chicken).
We grilled, fried and smoked fresh fish for the dish, and it was delicious. The total time to prepare everything (rice, sauce, meat, etc.) took about five hours.
The amount of time and effort that went into the preparation of the meal definitely increased the satisfaction gained from it when it was time for lunch.
After lunch, our host walked us a half mile from his home to show us a funeral event that was starting in the center of the village. The ceremony was to celebrate and honor an elder who passed away three years ago. It is not uncommon for funeral ceremonies to be held one, two, or three years after the death. The reason being money.
The Manjacos throw huge, elaborate ceremonies honoring the deceased family, tribe member and friend. I learned that these ceremonies are planned and put together by the elders of the tribe along with the living spouse(s) or oldest children of the deceased. If the family wants to have more money to spend on the event, they postpone it.
When the event comes to fruition, the entire tribe/village is welcomed and encouraged to participate. Different members of the village, family, and friends all bring food and gifts. Two —five cows brought to the event and butchered, along with sheep, goats, and chickens for the three to five-day ceremony. Friends and family members living abroad fly in from Europe and drive in from Senegal. They are usually the ones to purchase everything for the event.
Costs for the events range $1,026 to $2,564. This is a substantial amount of money in Guinea-Bissau. The average yearly income is $1,700. Ritual dances and drumming go on throughout the event. Women set up their cooking stations under the big trees, and the party goes on until all the food has been consumed.
Needless to say, it was quite an experience! I have the utmost respect and admiration for the women in Guinea-Bissau and many other parts of the world.
Few people know about this tiny, beautiful, diverse, politically-tense country. Guinea-Bissau is certainly one to put on your bucket-list.
