I spent last year, my first year of grad school, working at a vintage clothing store in Orlando. As someone whose wardrobe has been composed of thrift and vintage store finds since high school, it was a natural choice of workplace. Some customers I worked with knew more about vintage clothing than I did (a lot of customers did, actually, which was embarrassing at times, but I loved learning from them.) Others had never been in a vintage store before and perhaps had only been in a Goodwill once or twice.
Whether you're looking for lightly-used contemporary clothing at a lower price or classic pieces of vintage that have stood the test of time, here are some tips for secondhand shopping like a pro:
1. Set Some Ground Rules
Okay, this one is contingent on your lifestyle/living situation, and while I should heed my own advice, I never follow it. If you live in a college dorm with a tiny closet and have a college student's tiny budget, it may behoove you to set out on a shopping trip with a goal, and perhaps a budget, in mind. Are you just looking for a unique dress for formal? If you're in a thrift store, head right to the dresses, without stopping to look at handbags or T-shirts. In a more boutique-y vintage store, don't be afraid to ask the shop attendants for help - they're likely knowledgeable on factors like decade, material, and fit that'll help you make a choice.
On the flip side, the most fun shopping adventures are the ones where you walk into a store with an open mind and let the treasures find you. If you walk into a secondhand store of any kind with too specific an idea, you're likely to be disappointed by the grab-bag of one-of-a-kind things you find. But if you are shopping with money or space in mind, setting some rules for yourself will prevent you from buying something you'll never wear, just because it is interesting (or funny, if you're the irony-loving type.)
2. Know Your Stores
Thrift stores like Goodwill and Salvation Army, and those found in the likes of church basements, sell a little bit of everything, often at super-reasonable prices, but you'll have to do more digging. Re-sale stores like Plato's Closet sell gently-used contemporary clothing, from the past couple seasons. Vintage stores will generally be more curated, with well-versed employees and consistently high-quality goods, but they are pricier as a result. Marketplace settings are great in terms of diversity of stock, but the knowledge-base and pricing will vary between vendors.
3. Know Your Sizing
Of course modern-day clothing falls victim to vanity sizing, but their skewing of sizing conventions is nothing compared to the sizing free-for-all of older clothing. A dress labeled as a size 16 might be better suited for someone who's a size 8. The older the pieces, the wackier the sizing conventions could be. Know your bust, waist, and hip measurements at the very least, and if you're serious about vintage shopping, bring a measuring tape with you and measure garments (you can measure them flat on the hanger and double.) Always try things on if possible - if you're going somewhere like a flea market that might not have a dressing room, you might wear a close-fitting shirt and leggings that you can easily slip clothes over. If you're a guy who is considering taking off his shirt to try on a vintage one at a shop, know that the employees have probably seen plenty of men do so before. But still use the dressing room if there's one available.
4. Do Your Research
The smartphone era has made secondhand shopping that much easier. If you're looking for used contemporary pieces, whip out your phone and make sure those slightly broken-in boots aren't going for the same price new. You might not care when or where that gorgeous vintage dress is from, but if it's important to you, bookmark a few references. The Vintage Fashion Guild is one of the most comprehensive websites; it features a label database for better-known designers and brands, that can help you pinpoint the era of a piece. Familiarize yourself with the fit-and-flare silhouette of many '50s dresses, the minimalism of many '90s pieces, the big lapels on '70s jackets.
5. Get Creative
If you want to look like you stepped out of the 1963 Sears catalog, more power to you, but many vintage shoppers seek to integrate their favorite older pieces with contemporary staples. Modernize that slouchy '80s sweater and leggings with a newer boots/bag combo, and leave the hair crimper locked away. That Victorian blouse will be much more comfortable with a pair of jeans than with a corset and bustled skirt. Belt dresses that need a little more shape, and if you're on the fence about a piece, consider if you already have items it'll pair well with.
6. Consider Maintenance
If a dainty white blouse that is dry clean only has caught your eye, think about if you're actually willing to get it cleaned. Some materials/articles of clothing don't need to be cleaned as often, but it's something to think about if you're on the fence with an item. Inspect clothes before buying them; if they'll need repairs to be wearable, consider if the time/money you'll invest is worth the cost. There's a dress that's been sitting in my closet for years now, as I keep telling myself that I'll go get it hemmed, but I still haven't, and don't like the current length on me. Luckily, vintage clothes aren't as sensitive to the ebb and flow of fashion trends, so once I do get it fixed, I'll get plenty of wear out of it. Still, consider whether the pieces you're buying will be worth the effort.
7. Have fun!
Fashion is all about creativity and self-expression, and foregoing the shopping malls means that you'll have more opportunities to nab unique pieces. Keep my advice in mind, or don't - just make sure that you love every piece of clothing that comes home with you.
