Dupont Circle, named for a Civil War Admiral, is a roundabout-cum-park in northwest Washington, centered about a statue and surrounded by cars, a metro station, and mansions. This was in the 19th century a playground for Senators and robber barons, and in the 20th century it became Washington’s gay hub. It is now an upscale neighborhood filled to the brink with associations, embassies, and Washington’s rich and affluent.

If one were to venture down to this historic circle, one might find:

The Central Fountain

The fountain in the center is done in a style mimicking those of Greece or Rome, much like the National Mall, designed and sculpted by those who would later create the Lincoln Memorial. It commemorates a Civil War Rear Admiral, Samuel Francis Du Pont, who ruthlessly enforced Lincoln’s Anaconda Plan, and before that was the hero of San Diego during the Mexican-American War, before being disgraced at the loss at Charleston. One can understand why a water-based memorial, with figures representing the Sea, Stars, and Wind, would be fitting for this man.

Chess Players

DuPont Circle is noted for its speed-chess players, who gather around the fountain and its benches and play that ancient game of strategy at breakneck speeds. Granite checkerboards on stands are provided by the park maintenance. They are all kept cool by the canopy of trees that shades the central fountain. The lucky ones may see some of the regulars, one of whom is a championship winner.

Mansions

Magnates of all types made their homes in this area at one point, and their houses show this. They have cobblestone paths for horses to bring up their carriages, and big name architectural pedigrees like McKim, Mead, and White. These mansions are legacies of mineral fortunes made out West, when the nation was populating its conquests. These mansions still house the rich, either as residences or as associations, with think tanks and elite social clubs owning their own buildings in this opulent neighborhood.

Birds

Among the grass you will notice many birds, mostly pigeons, perhaps the most common bird in the District. These little black, green-and-purple necked creatures wander around the circle, flying away if approached. They mean nobody harm, but perceive you as meaning plenty (granted, they aren’t entirely wrong). They roost in small groups, eating whatever they can find on the grass, not noticing particularly still and quiet picnickers.

Embassies

Second only to Embassy Row itself, Dupont Circle is noted for its diplomatic presence. Iraq has a building here, as does Colombia. Uzbekistan and Peru have their buildings, as does Indonesia. Indonesia’s building in particular draws interest due to its history; the building, known as the Walsh-McLean House, was once the home of rich heirs and heiresses to mining fortunes who blew it all on travel and parties. They also owned the infamous Hope Diamond, now in the Smithsonian, that allegedly casts malevolent spells on whoever owns it. After this last heiress’ death, it was sold to the Indonesian government to cover her massive debts.