Theodore Renault, who goes by Teddy, spoke at SXSW 8 and a half months ago, and was then only a freelancing contributor for Diet Prada and Medium's style branch. Since then, they have been named editor at large for MediumStyle, the world's largest open platform for writers in the world of fashion. More recently, they have been recognized by the CFDA and have also scored a profile by the editorial board of BOF. But Teddy's mission hasn't changed since SXSW. In fact, they're more determined, powerful, and angrier than ever. I was able to catch up with Teddy in an exclusive e-interview about why they're so feared, what their mission is, and finding their footing in the changing landscape.
Laura: So you're an editor now, and have already been dubbed by many as pretty...scary. In fact, W's content editor called you the "scariest person in fashion" she's ever met. What's your response to that?
Teddy: *laughs* I think it's really funny, because if you're not a terrible designer or a problematic person, you really have nothing to be scared of. But I enjoy being feared by people in my line of work. I don't want to be approachable. I don't know who that woman is. But she can be scared. I don't really care.
Laura: Do you ever feel like that's being a bit of a parody?
Teddy: Absolutely not. People outside of my line of work called me intimidating for years. My station doesn't make me scary. I might just be a scary person. I think me being scary actually comes from a lack of understanding. I'm not some gay man who wears short shorts, and acts all silly. I'm effeminate, but not the kind of effeminate man the world is used to.
Laura: So you think the world expects effeminate gay men to act a certain way? Stereotypical?
Teddy: Oh yes. Especially at my age. I'm not some blonde headed, spray tanned, twink who has a poodle and carries a birkin. I wear long, flowing couture gowns and dress very non-sexually. I have a cat.
Laura: You don't fit into the LGBT community then?
Teddy: I don't really care about the LGBT community outside my work. Locally, I have my friends, but outside that, it's filled with problematic people with no style. I really don't want to talk to you if you can't dress yourself well. I think it's embarrassing. And lots of people in Austin cannot dress themselves. There are the people who think they can. But it's all Zara suits and Gucci belts. Maybe a designer t-shirt. They look pathetic.
Laura: Is there a local person who really just is the exclusion to that? There has to be.
Teddy: There's a drag queen here named Ruby Knight. She dresses better than me, to be honest. Lots of respect. And my best friend Eliot Knight. She looks stunning all the time. I have a lot of respect for someone who can dress better than me. And those two really do.
Laura: So back to the LGBT community, and you not fitting in...I don't think I got a very solid answer.
Teddy: Yeah I don't fit in to some. I fit where I'm wanted. I won't waste my time waiting for masculine cisgender men to give me their approval or companionship. I am 100% myself. I'll never change who I am to fit in with losers.
Laura: Do you think that's why Alexander McQueen and Dior like you?
Teddy: I think Sarah and Maria like me because I don't dress for anyone but myself. Maria was the first person years ago to send me couture. They take me seriously, and I take them very seriously. And of course, I'm a loyal patron.
Laura: Speaking of patronizing the shops, how's your closet looking lately?
Teddy: Ugh, it's been a wild year for my wardrobe. My new sustainability commitment...limiting the amount of clothes I have and consigning like crazy...it's been wild. I've been on a Vetements binge lately. Fulfilling all my fantasies from 3-4 years ago. I've always been drawn to clothes that are over-the-top but not necessarily clownish. I love the crude nature of Demna's mind. I love gutter stuff. Stuff that shocks and scares people.
Laura: Demna's leaving his baby. What are your thoughts on that?
Teddy: I wasn't shocked at all that he left. His heart is with Balenciaga and I think that he's more motivated by transforming the brand and keeping it moving forward. Vetements is in good hands. He did fantastic work. And now that Vetements is completely anonymously designed, I think it'll be better for Vetements. Sales are stagnant, apparently.
Laura: Creative direction is a musical chairs game, but we also saw the rise of Rihanna's new LVMH backed label, a new house. Hit or miss?
Teddy: It's not good. In my honest opinion. It looks like Zara. Or COS. I was expecting something so cool...like clothes that make you feel powerful. It all looked bleak. She is basically taking Demna's vision and putting her name on it. I hope she moves more towards original design. Victorian-esque street wear is not it.
Laura: Strong words...any other designers right now not doing it for you?
Teddy: Plenty. Tom Ford, Thom Browne, Alessandro Michele is getting tired, Berluti, Chloe ...the list goes on. Hermes looks as tired and dated as usual. At least they're consistent.
Laura: Any designers that you're living for at the moment?
Teddy: Again, plenty. But I am most impressed by Miuccia Prada's visions. Like...wow. I love clothes that feel like toys. They're so fun and playful, but also edgy and sexual. Prada's latest is just a toy box of fun. What a treat to behold. It all feels like it's out of a storybook. A fashion fairytale.
Laura: So now you're an editor that the world knows about. Does that scare you at all?
Teddy: It's more surprising than anything. I always look back and remember when I was just a bored house-husband writing as a hobby. And then suddenly, it's official. I'm an editor. I'm at fashion shows. And yeah, it scares me. But that's why it's important to focus less on title, and more on your mission. I'm not easily sidetracked.
Laura: Your mission...explain more of that.
Teddy: I have two main things I want to strive towards. Equity in fashion and accountability in fashion. Equity meaning, I want our industry to be competitive and to yield the highest quality work while also maintaining fairness every step of the way. Everyone deserves a shot to create a body of work and for that body of work to be protected. And they also deserve to be protected as the creator. The second part being that, our industry is filled with scum. And that scum needs to be held accountable. And the best way we can do that is promoting the democratization of fashion, which is happening organically, I believe. That's why I believe so heavily in Diet Prada's mission. Because people have power over industry. We need to call out racism, sexism, transphobia, pay inequality, body shaming, sexual harassment, you name it. We have a duty, as fashion journalists to do so.
Laura: That's a pretty bold mission statement.
Teddy: Well, it's a bold industry.
Laura: So finally, what's the plan moving forward?
Teddy: I think just finding my footing in this universe. It's so big, and I'm so young. I hope people continue to be scared of me.
Laura: That's a good start. Thanks so much for talking with me.
Teddy: The pleasure is all mine.