Did you really go to Mostar if you didn't walk across the Old Bridge? Nestled in the heart of the Balkans in Eastern Europe, Mostar is one of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s most popular destinations. Even though the city was ravaged by war in the 1990’s, the iconic Stari Mostwas rebuilt in 2004 and serves as a reminder for us to “never forget” the past. What happened in Bosnia is very complicated, and I’d rather not go into too much detail on that, but if you are interested, I have written more about it here.
I’d like to focus on the future, not the past. Yes, the past is important to move forward, but we should not dwell on the past for another twenty years; who knows what will happen then. Before we discuss the future, let’s set things straight: Mostar is home to two different ethnic groups, Bosnians and Croatians. After the war, a “two schools under one roof” policy was adopted, meaning that schools would be segregated. Yes, segregated. And it still exists. The difference between the students? Nothing but how their last names sound. May I add it’s 2017?
As crazy as it sounds, it’s the norm in Bosnia. The real question is: how do we work around a system that still allows different histories to be taught in the same building? We bring together the youth because they are the future of this country. I had the opportunity to hear more about the Mostar Summer Youth Programme (MSYP) at the BiH Diasporic Conference in Washington, DC last weekend, and let me just say, this is something truly incredible.
MSYP is a free educational program that enables 14-19 year old’s from Mostar (and surrounding areas) to develop self-confidence and key skills through different courses. These courses are taught by volunteers and range from things like spoken word poetry to creative writing classes. The combination of these two led to the creation of an amazing, heartfelt project called “A Love Letter To Mostar.”
High school students wrote poems and letters about inequality and personal experiences. Things they wanted to change, things they knew would be hard to change but would try to change, anyway. Keep in mind that it’s hard to talk about these things aloud, especially when older generations view Bosnians and Croatians hanging out together as taboo.
While I was reading this book, I could tell how much it must have taken for these kids to pour their souls out onto a blank page. One letter resonated with me in particular, the first line read, “When I was five years old, I saw you (Mostar) for the first time.” Within the two seconds it took me to read that, I was immediately taken back to my first visit to Bosnia. I was also five years old when I saw Mostar for the first time in my life.
I didn’t know much about the city. What I do remember is walking across the bridge as they were still rebuilding it. It’s surreal to me that I visited Bosnia in such a short time frame following the war; I had no idea that the streets I was strolling on had once been dubbed, “Sniper Alley.” Fast-forward fifteen years later, I have a much different perception of the city and with that, I will leave you with my own love letter to Mostar.
When I think of you, I think of the pekara on the corner that always seem to be open 24/7. The 1999 white BMW my cousin Mirza drove me around in. The hostel my uncle’s friend, Srdjan, welcomed me into, proudly showing off the rooftop terrace. The view from Lejla’s balcony, and the winding walk down to the center of town. I think of all these remnants from summer vacations, I have no bad memories of you. Deep down, you have become a part of me, a part that I can never forget.
For more love letters, click here.