In the past, dhabas have been known as roadside food stalls for truck drivers, primarily because of their location (on highways and the like). However, in Karachi, "elite" dhabas have become somewhat of a trend recently. There's a bunch of dhabas in various areas of Karachi that many consider "inclusive," and these cater to a crowd of both men and women.

One blogger maintains, "You can find a laborer and a rich man sitting at the same place, drinking the same tea, having the same parathas, and for a few minutes, all the difference between them seems to evaporate. That, for me, is the true essence of the dhaba culture – bringing different people together and diminishing their differences."

Dhabas have super long menus, are open for super long hours and are almost always super full. Even in Ramzaan (the month of fasting for Muslims, which make up the majority of Pakistan's population) dhabas are popping from the evening onward with groups of friends chatting and playing cards. These dhabas offer unique kinds of paratha, such as pizza paratha. They even add a twist to regular chai by serving Cadbury Chai, for example. I don't know what the price difference between an elite and regular dhaba is, or if a Punjabi truck driver would ever actually drink Cadbury Chai, so it's very possible that elite dhabas exist to target the elite.

As such, while I'm not sure that upscale dhabas are inclusive or that they eradicate class difference for a time, I can attest to the relaxed atmosphere, amazing chai and parathas and the feeling that I, myself, was included in a longstanding cultural tradition.

In fact, I enjoyed a particular dhaba, named Chai Shai, so much that I wrote a poem about it. I'm not a poet by any stretch of the imagination, so if you like what you read, the credit belongs to Chai Shai!

Disclaimer: I was fasting when I wrote this, so I might have romanticized the Nutella paratha a little too much.

Chai Shai,

You’re so much more than an elite dhaba trend.

Your brilliance, no one can deny,

I would go so far as to say you’re the perfect kind of blend.

The way you make paratha,

especially when slathered with chocolate spread,

is the best possible use of aata,

so much better than any other bread.

Don’t get me started on ambience.

I’ve never experienced such a relaxed atmosphere;

your competitors don’t even stand a chance.

It’s why you’re so revered.

I haven’t even gotten to the chai, yet.

Your magnificent doodh patti,

is brewed with magic I bet.

Fit for the rulers of the Mughal dynasty,

people drink it, despite that summer sweat.

You bring together Moth Smoke’s air conditioned elite,

with some of our citizens who may be in debt.

It’s an inkling of lesser inequality that not many can beat.

Playing cards "en plein air,"

It seems everyone enjoys sitting in the heat,

Ladies can put their feet up and you don’t care,

actually, your location is the best place to meet.

The sounds of the street are somehow pleasing to the ear,

Not intrusive,

but still evident enough to make it clear,

that we are sitting on the side of the road,

a place where some of us aren’t even allowed to go.

Because for some reason it’s not conducive,

to our lifestyles to eat by the roadside.

It’s not safe to sit at a certain place,

when perhaps it’s someone’s bedside,

while we may not even think of such a case.

Urdu Glossary:

Aata - flour

Dhaba - roadside food stall, with seating in this case

Chai - tea

Doodh patti - milk-based tea with sugar, also known as magic

Paratha - a kind of flat bread