Back in 2014, I was riding high off my previous backpacking excursions in Europe and Asia. Feeling the momentum of independent success, I decided to finally head to Africa. After all, I’ve always wanted to see the continent for myself. Looking back at the experience, there are some things that deserve mention.
1. Understand safety
Safety on the African trail comes in 3 parts: wildlife, crime, and medical precautions. Even if you’re not engaged in a safari, the fauna of your local village might be ecstatic to meet you. In Victoria Falls, it was not unusual to see elephant families openly wandering about. Other places might feature crocodile and hippo warning signs.
Second, is crime. Now, this caution must be exercised in the larger cities especially Johannesburg, in Gauteng Province, South Africa. Though authorities are still trying to mitigate crime, major cities throughout the region continue to have problems.
Rule of thumb, just stay inside at night in both small villages and larger cities. In terms of medical requirements, you’ll certainly need a Yellow Fever vaccination. Also, don’t forget about the "M" word, Malaria. If you’re heading up north to Kenya and Uganda, you’ll need your Doxy, and do take it.
2. Understand visas
Things get a little tricky here because well, visas are typically a pain. The continent alone is a jigsaw of different visas requirements that can be a deterrent for unseasoned travelers. Luckily, many of the southern nations are visa-free, including Botswana, Swaziland, Namibia, South Africa, etc.
However, heading further north, the visas get trickier. Though located on the eastern shore, the Mozambique sticker is a good example. It took me visiting government posts in Cape Town, Swaziland, and Pretoria before I finally landed a Mozambique visa. My advice is to acquire as many visas as you can prior to departure, or in one major city. However, it's true that some nations have a fairly painless border visa, Zambia and Zimbabwe are really simple. Others such as Kenya, Uganda, and Rwanda have transitioned to the East Africa visa that is now available online. But still be aware of what's required as requirements and accessibility can instantly change.
3. Infrastructure
Sure, South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, and their neighbors have great transportation options. Intercape, Greyhound, and Translux are great examples. However, when traversing further north, such as in Malawi, options might be scant. Keep in mind also that trains are rare throughout the continent, though there is a famous train that links Bulawayo and Victoria Falls. Now let's talk about taxis; shared taxis are not only common but are an adventure in their own right. Don't be surprised to be sardine canned with 25 people in a van.
Additionally, roadways will possess rural charm, so expect plenty of potholes and frequent stops. Whenever a shared taxi driver gives you an arrival time, add two hours. Lastly, remember that shared taxis don't leave until they're full.
4. Start from the north and move south, avoid the west
Unless you're a more experienced traveler, western Africa should be avoided. The reason harkens back to the previous three bullet points. Sure, some Europeans choose to drive across west Africa, but for individual travelers, relying on shared taxis could be a pain. Plus, a number of visas alone will make it a headache. Now, starting from the south starts easily enough, but visa and infrastructure might prove cumbersome as you move north toward Tanzania. The ideal method, in my opinion, is to go from north to south. It’ll be easier overall. As you head south the roadways, along with transportation options, will improve and visa requirements will become more streamlined or non-existent.
5. Things Move Slowly
What I mean is that the mentality is incredibly relaxed, and it might catch many coffee driven westerners off-guard. The key thing to remember is that everything moves slowly, and few things are cause for emergency. This is especially true during border crossings which can take longer than expected. Arriving at the Zimbabwe-South Africa border at around 9:00 pm, our bus was stuck overnight until around 8-ish in the morning. This relaxed attitude extends into other areas as well, so those accustomed to the New York Minute, or the college second crunch, might be flabbergasted by the African Hour. A-type personalities will need to dump buckets of patience over their heads.
Another reason for this article is that I'm considering traversing the continent a second time. Planning to start in Ethiopia and move south to Cape Town. In fact, after creating this list, I realize how much I miss the place. From the high speed shared taxis, wildlife photo ops, and the open hospitality, it's worth the experience.