There's something about the ocean -- something that entices, taunts, and tempts many, summoning them into the deep blue to dance with the waves. The song of foamy white swells crashing against sandy shores accompanied by the harmony of a whipping salty breeze calls a union of human and ocean. This marriage is none other than the frolic of surfing. It catalyzes the most inexplicable sentiments -- passions that are nearly impossible to be accurately communicated to land-locked non-surfers. The following phenomena are the attempts to convey the ineffable sentiments of surfing.
1. The exhilaration of catching your first wave of the day
When you first paddle out, your hands cupped as they splash against the water's surface, you are initially smacked with the revitalizing salt water. If you were tired when you made your way to the beach, you definitely are wide awake as you duck dive under the shore breaks and finally find a coveted spot in the sea. Maybe it takes you a few minutes to scope out the waves, or maybe the perfect swell comes just seconds after you hopped into the ocean, but the resulting feeling of catching your first wave is unparalleled. As you glide across the water, your hand skimming the wall of the wave, you become one with the ocean and you feel proud and humbled simultaneously.
2. The exhaustion after hours in the sea
It's a good kind of tired; the type that makes you feel accomplished. As you cuddle up in a dry towel, your wetsuit still halfway on, you yawn with satisfaction, the aftertaste of the ocean still fresh on your tongue.
3. The humbling tumult of a mild wipe-out
Getting a mouthful of seaweed isn't as bad as it sounds. You might somersault a little along the ocean floor as the wave rolls on without you, but as long as you're not seriously injured, it's just light embarrassment that your buddies tease you for when you get back to the line-up.
4. The awe induced by watching the water
Even from the shore, the waves are striking. You admire the pattern of the sea, counting seconds between sets and marveling at the surfers. There's no chair more comfortable than a towel dampened by sand.
5. The bond with a surfer's home break
It's a comfortable spot, somewhere you've surfed for years; you're used to the swells, you probably have the tide charts memorized, and you know the basic rhythm of your home break. It's your place, and you feel a sense of belonging.
6. The excitement of testing out a new spot
Surfing instills one with an innate sense of wanderlust. And when you get the chance to hit up some famous breaks, you're eager to hit the water ASAP.
7. The satisfaction of a freshly waxed stick
Surf wax has an aromatic quality to it -- and everyone has their favorite brand (Sticky Bumps, Sex Wax, Mrs. Palmer's). A fresh coat of wax is the perfect encouragement for a full day in the water.
8. The distinct surf culture -- both locally and globally
Surfing is a world is an eclectic group of individuals -- adventurers and explorers. Pro surfers have immaculate Instagram feeds, lead interesting lives, and seem like the most down-to-earth people. These people -- pros and amateurs alike -- compose the unique surf culture.
9. The tight knit community comprised of beach bums
The people you surf with become your best friends -- you share your most prized possession (the ocean) with them. You're sure to have a quality crew of cronies who hit you up with a daily surf report at 7 A.M.
10. The wonderment that strikes when watching a talented surfer
Whether you've only surfed a few times or if you're a pro yourself, you will appreciate a good surfer, regardless of your own talent. Someone who carves across waves with perfect style, maybe even tossing in some aerial tricks, is mesmerizing.
11. The convergence of humanity and the ever-changing tides
The marriage of body and sea previously mentioned is a byproduct of any water-sport. As you ride the waves, floating in the water from high tide to low tide, sun-up to sun-down, you physically feel the undulating tides firsthand.
12. The respect for the beings who co-inhabit the ocean
Be it the animals or your fellow surfers, you have respect for every inhabitant of the sea. For the sea life, this is their home, so you're sure respect the ocean and pickup any litter that might be sprinkled across the beach. And with your peers, you maintain a mutual respect, adhering to surfing etiquette and rights-of-way.
13. The fine line of between fear and ambition
The vast, dark, deep ocean is intimidating. As the sun sparkles against the infinite ripples and glints with the multitude of possibilities encapsulated in every wave, you feel fear and ambition swirl together. You're anchored to the ocean, and no matter how daunting its immensity may seem, you trust the ocean and aspire to melt into the saltwater under the glare of a summer sun.
14. The unique duet of artistry and athleticism
Every surfer has a unique style, contributing to the artistic quality of surfing. However, you need to be strong, too. Hours of paddling is sure to build up immense arm muscle.
15. The intimate relationship between surfer and sea
Like any relationship, the formation -- the love -- between surfer and sea takes commitment. If no one else is, the ocean will always be there for you. Its loyalty is undying. Its praise is constant. And no matter how many months or years you spend apart, you know that you can always make your way back to the beach and the waves will greet you, embracing you with a refreshing hug. When it's time for you to leave, it will cry with pleading shore breaks, your aching longing reciprocated by the turbulent sea.
All photos featured in this article were taken by myself, Gordy Michie, Anna DeMalo, Ryan Cutler, Courtney Kelly, Ann Haenn, and Deana Clement.